Jeremy Scott screwed Moschino.
Sorry, I’m starting so hard, but I really can’t understand why such a well-defined fashion brand decides to go for cheap street clamor.
Moschino’s designs from years ago had their original style loved by ultra-feminine fans with a sense of self irony.
Did you know that its founder, Franco Moschino, wanted to become a painter? He entered the fashion industry as an illustrator for Gianni Versace, wanting to earn money to study at the Academy of Fine Arts in Milan. Once he got hooked, he found a job at the Cadette fashion house, and in 1983 he started his own label (then called Moonshadow).
The style of his projects from the beginning was funny, flirty, full of references to street cultur. He was the one who started using slogans on luxurious clothes and on a catwalk.
After the designer’s death in 1994, Rossella Jardini took over the reins of the fashion house. She calmed down the collections a bit, but there was still visible a well-balanced extravagance and humour.
Red carpet (and more)
Moschino’s designs were worn by stars: Kylie Minogue appeared in them during the Showgirl Tour (2005), Madonna in her Sticky & Sweet Tour (2008), and Lady Gaga during the concerts of The Born This Way Ball (2011–2012). Lil Kim and Amy Winehouse sang songs about Moschino!
One of the key recurring motifs is the “drawing” on clothes, the so-called trompe l’oeil.
A similar coat (from the 2001 collection) has been worn by Elle Driver played by Daryl Hannah in the Kill Bill movie. Do you remember it? I have one more coat with drawn seams – black, relaxed, with no lapels – you can find photos of it in this post, and also here.
With all the fun with design and playful form, I loved the color discipline – consistent use of black and white, a lot of saturated red or amaranth.
Currently, Jeremy Scott is trying hard to create shocking collections. He clashes bright shades, mixes patterns, uses symbols of pop culture (Barbie and McDonald’s collection below).
He also exaggerates in haute couture proposals – I will not forget those from the Fall-Winter 2016 season. I know that high tailoring is often an experiment and intricate decorations, but I do not buy creation only to arouse a shock.